Have any of you had an experience when you seriously thought you were going to die?
I was surfing in Bali a while back and was waiting for the big one, just behind the smaller sets. All of a sudden there comes my chance… I paddle as hard as I can and start to catch the wave.
Right at the critical moment my nose goes under and I am launched over the wave with the break. I was held under water for two more waves and pretty much gave up. I grabbed my leash, pulled it and got ahold of my board then just relaxed to conserve what little air I still had. Thank god I came up again.
The experience really changed my life. Helped me do what I wanted to do, and not what anybody else wanted me to do.
If you have had a similair experience, share it and tell us how it changed you…
